- pattern: Ninot by Pauline Alice, 2013;
- fabric: wool mix with lycra suiting, lining;
- notions: fabric covered buttons, light & medium sew-in interfacing
I really like jackets and wanted to make something warm, as an alternative to wearing cardigans and jumpers. This peplum jacket has a feminine shape - great if you don’t normally like jackets because they don’t have an accentuated waistline.
The alterations I made were mainly to reduce the princess seam for a smaller bust. It involved redrawing the curve so that it is more shallow, and shortening the length of the front pieces:
I really enjoy sewing pleats. I’m not sure why - there’s something very satisfying about making them.
This pattern is for an unlined jacket, so there aren’t any lining pattern pieces or instructions. I decided to add a lining. It will make the jacket more durable, easier to slip on and off, and because the fabric frays a lot.
I cut the lining pieces minus the facings, remembering to add seam allowances. I also added 1 inch at the centre back for the back pleat. I didn’t add ease to the pattern pieces, but I did sew any vertical seams with 1/2 inch seam allowance instead of 5/8 inch.
The peplum lining is unpleated, otherwise it would be quite bulky. I have let the peplum lining hang instead of hemming it to the shell. It was quite hard to find information on what to do in this case, as tailoring books tend to cover classic menswear styles - not pleated peplums, so I treated it more like a skirt.
I found this really useful pdf on adding ease and making a lining pattern.
I wanted an autumnal colour for the lining - inspired by the leaves I’ve seen around, but I didn’t see a shade that I liked. Instead, I chose a plum colour lining, which is lovely. I didn’t realise until I got it home that it’s the same shade as my cascade top.
I’m really happy with how this jacket turned out. It’s the first time making something with princess seams, which was actually fine to fit. I also find working with wool very satisfying. This is a wool blend twill suiting which has a good mix of drape and body, which really suits the design of this pattern.
Sometimes when you make separates you can end up with items that don’t go with anything, but this will go with quite a few things. I think even in the Spring, it could be worn as an outer jacket during that transition in seasons.
From the tissue fit I made the following alterations:
I was going to make this jacket in green with white piping and white buttons for a graphic look, but I came across some wooden buttons with small flowers that looked really good next to the fabric and which changed the look - it made me think of English fields of lush green grass (the rain is good for something) with a scattering of flowers.
This pattern was straightforward to make up and the instructions simple to follow. I really appreciated having diagrams to refer to, especially after my last couple of Burda Style magazine makes.
This jacket is unlined so I made sure that the inside was really neat and all the seams finished nicely. I like to use up fabric scraps for interfacings. For this jacket I used a cotton gauze with purple flowers that was left over from making the ruffle dress. If the facings turn over - you get a peep of flowers (instead of fusible interfacing).
I’m going to look out for a rose print fabric to make something to go with this jacket, as I think it will pair up well.