Making the scarlet shorts

I had some cotton left over from the red 1970s dress, and I thought it would be a good idea to use it to make some shorts to wear at home.  The shorts pattern is from the December 2011 issue of Burda Style magazine.

There are only four pattern pieces and it is a really simple design.  The cotton that I used would not normally be used for shorts, as it isn’t really heavy enough, but it’s not sheer either - so it’s fine.  I thought it would be a good exercise to see how I get on with fitting shorts, as there are other trouser patterns I would like to try from the same issue.  (In fact there are many lovely things that I want to make from this particular issue.)

From the tissue fit - the first try was too big at the hip and sides.  So I used the smaller size according to my hip size and the next size up for my waist.  I also cut the pattern at the hip line and extended it by 1.5 inches, as I found from the tissue fit that there wasn’t a lot of ‘coverage’ - a bit teeny tiny for me.  I also added 3cm to the hem to make the leg length longer.

There isn’t a waistband to these shorts.  It means they sit very well at the waist - following the natural curve.

This pattern is like a blank canvas.  I can imagine making it up in corduroy with a lining, or even in satin with buttons or snap fasteners instead of a zip for sleepwear.  It would also look great with a print or embellishments.

scarlet shorts:

• pattern:  Burda Style magazine December 2011 issue, shorts 112,
• fabric: cotton,
• notion: concealed zip

Making the Ruby slip

I really like the gathered bodice version of the Ruby slip from pattern scissors cloth - it’s a lovely classic shape.  I also wanted to try working with satin - the last time was many moons again at school.  I had intended to make it with the lace detail, but I wasn’t very enamoured with the lace available in the shops - scatchy texture and uninspiring patterns.  So this is my version in just satin.

I followed the instructions for redrafting the Ruby slip pattern with princess seams to a gathered bodice version.  There was a bit of head scratching but I got there in the end.

The crepe back satin was nice to work with - not too slippery if you are cutting and sewing two layers.  It also drapes very well.  The satin I used was a synthetic material and good for trying out this type of fabric.  I would like to try making something special in a silk satin one day.

This slip turned out a little tight at the empire waist.  It’s a bit of a wrestle for me to get in and out of.  I will need to remember to add a bit more width to the bodice sides seams and the top of the skirt.  I didn’t realise that lingerie blocks have less ease.

For the straps I decided to fold the fabric to the required width and top-stitched it.  

With every sewing project - I learn something new or different.  I’ve been nervous of making design changes to patterns, but this was a good introduction.  I’m also encouraged that working with satin fabric was so enjoyable.

Ruby slip:

• pattern: Ruby slip free pattern from pattern scissors cloth,
• fabric:  crepe back satin,
• notion: none

Making the wild flowers top

When it comes to choosing prints, I really have to be drawn to it.  My local fabric shop is a nice big shop in Tooting and they let you browse freely, which is good news for me as I tend to dither a lot.

This cotton poplin was tucked away between two other fabric bolts and I instantly liked it.  It makes me think of wild flower gardens, folk art, and long childhood summer days.  It feels very escapist.

I used the same pattern as for the paisley top, but without sleeves.  I followed the pattern instructions for sewing the bias binding to the armhole, but I found the method very fiddly and difficult to sew accurately.  I also found the 1.5cm seam allowance made the shoulders a bit narrow for me.  So, I unpicked it all.  This time I placed the edge of the bias binding flush to the armhole edge, and used the edge of the presser foot as a guide - which gave me a smaller seam allowance of 0.5cm.  It was more accurate to sew.  It means the shoulder and armhole line is less narrow, and feels more comfortable for me to wear.

I think this top is versatile and can look good dressed casually with jeans or a skirt, or smarter with trousers.

Roll on sunny days.

wild flowers top:

• pattern: New Look 6808, 2011,
• fabric: printed cotton poplin,
• notion: zip

New Look 6808 top, detail

Making the paisley top

I thought it was a good time to tackle bodice alterations by making a simple top.  I chose New Look 6808 as the bodice has a nice fitted shape, and a variety of different sleeves, necklines and collars to choose from.

I decided to make this into a summer work top and chose a cool blue and white paisley patterned cotton.

I did a tissue-fit with the following pattern adjustments:

• narrowed the width of the front darts by half
• redrew a new point to the bust dart
• shortened the front bodice length to compensate for the change to the bust dart, and because the pattern length is very long
• trimmed 1cm of the centre front as it was too wide, which meant the collar and front facing had to be shortened too.
• redrew one size up for the waistline

All these changes were worth it, as it means this top fits me well, and looks flattering. 

The tie and peter pan collar details are very cute.

I will be making more tops from this pattern, as it is very wearable and lovely.

• pattern: New Look 6808, 2011,
• fabric: printed cotton,
• notion: zip

Making the contrast dress

One of the things that I wanted to make this year was a dress that can look like separates - one that has a contrast to the bodice and skirt.  I’ve seen many lovely ones including Mena’s statement necklace dress and what I wore’s ray of light dress.

I cut the bodice from a Liberty Tana Lawn, which I bought in Edinburgh (Crafters’ Ceilidh).  The print design is very busy, so I thought a block of  colour for the skirt would be a good contrast.  I found a cotton that perfectly matched the lovely teal colour that can be found in the print design.

The pattern is a contemporary one - Simplicity 2444 from the Project Runway series, but the shape of the neckline and full skirt has a retro nod to 1950s/early 1960s shapes.  The diagonal pleating detail in the skirt is really lovely - ‘architectural’ almost, and the plain colour fabric really sets it off well.  The skirt is my favourite part of this dress.

I always have to redraw the waistline when I make dresses - as there is a one size difference between my bodice and skirt size.  I’m learning slowly what I need to do to try and resolve fitting issues with bodices.  I moved the point of both sets of front darts one inch higher. 

There are still some improvements I can make to the front bodice pattern to make it fit better, as I’d like to use this pattern again to make other variations of this dress.  I found some good instructions on how to eliminate darts, so I might remove the outer darts as I don’t think I need the extra shaping.  I think also I could also redraw the centre front line about 1cm in at the neckline to eliminate a little excess fabric there.

This is the first garment made on my new Singer sewing machine - which is lovely.

Spring will be here soon, and I’m really looking forward to wearing this dress.