From the first look - I really liked the design details of the Ninot jacket by Pauline Alice. I also thought it would be good to try new techniques - welt pockets and bound buttonholes.
I initially traced the size 36 and made a partial muslin/toile which lacked enough ease - so I sized up and traced the size 38.
The changes I made were:
- used the size 36 for the side seams of the front bodice and back
- adjusted the sleeves by tapering the seam to size 36 at the armholes
- added 1.5 inch at the hem of the front bodice and back, and same for the lining
- cut 1 inch off the sleeve hem and same for the lining
- moved the apex of the bust dart on the lining front bodice piece
I chose a wool mix with lycra suiting - it has a nice drape which I thought would work well with this pattern design. The lining is a lovely bright teal colour, which goes very nicely with the greyish-blue of the suiting. I used a light sew-in interfacing for the bodice and a medium one for the collar.
I have a faint memory of making a bound buttonhole sample in high school. I sewed the bound buttonholes by hand as it gave me more control. I think they turned out quite well.
I’m pleased with the welt pockets, which I’ve never tried before. It gives such a lovely detail to this jacket. My corners aren’t perfect as there’s a bit of puckering, but I’m glad I learnt how to make welt pockets with this jacket.
The jacket could do with more ease or width at the shoulders - across my front it can feel a bit tight when fully buttoned up. Perhaps I should have added more width to the back and the front pieces - to make it more comfortable/looser.
The pattern illustrations I found at times a bit confusing, as some images were close-ups - which meant they were out of context. I found the photographs in the tutorial a really good accompaniment and helpful.
I wish there were more placement markings in the form of notches and dots on some of the pattern pieces. The dots on the sleeve don’t correspond to any on the bodice or back pieces. It would have also been good to have some markings on the two piece sleeve seam - I found it tricky to line up - as you need the sleeve head to remain a smooth curve.
I didn’t manage to line up the sleeve seams with the back yoke seams, which is probably because I didn’t adjust the sleeve pattern in the correct place when I altered the size of the side seams of the bodice and back pieces. There are also a few drag lines in the sleeves when I’m wearing it, which means it isn’t hanging well.
I learnt some new things with this jacket, so I’m pleased. I also have a wearable jacket for the Spring. It has a lovely swing shape when it’s worn, as the pleat at the back flares out.
It did feel like a long make but I’m glad I persisted and finished making it.