I really like jackets and wanted to make something warm, as an alternative to wearing cardigans and jumpers. This peplum jacket has a feminine shape - great if you don’t normally like jackets because they don’t have an accentuated waistline.
The alterations I made were mainly to reduce the princess seam for a smaller bust. It involved redrawing the curve so that it is more shallow, and shortening the length of the front pieces:
- cut the size 10 bodice blending out to a size 12 at the waist
- reduced the front side piece princess seam curve at it’s highest point by 1/2 inch tapering out to 0 at the edge
- reduced the front side piece length by 1/4 inch tapering out to 0 at the side
- reduced the front piece length by 1/4 inch at the waistline
- reduced the back piece length by 1/4 inch at the waistline
- reduced the back side piece length by 1/4 inch tapering out to 0 at the side
- peplum cut for a size 10 but to a size 12 at the side seam
- added an inch at the sleeve hem
I really enjoy sewing pleats. I’m not sure why - there’s something very satisfying about making them.
This pattern is for an unlined jacket, so there aren’t any lining pattern pieces or instructions. I decided to add a lining. It will make the jacket more durable, easier to slip on and off, and because the fabric frays a lot.
I cut the lining pieces minus the facings, remembering to add seam allowances. I also added 1 inch at the centre back for the back pleat. I didn’t add ease to the pattern pieces, but I did sew any vertical seams with 1/2 inch seam allowance instead of 5/8 inch.
The peplum lining is unpleated, otherwise it would be quite bulky. I have let the peplum lining hang instead of hemming it to the shell. It was quite hard to find information on what to do in this case, as tailoring books tend to cover classic menswear styles - not pleated peplums, so I treated it more like a skirt.
I found this really useful pdf on adding ease and making a lining pattern.
I wanted an autumnal colour for the lining - inspired by the leaves I’ve seen around, but I didn’t see a shade that I liked. Instead, I chose a plum colour lining, which is lovely. I didn’t realise until I got it home that it’s the same shade as my cascade top.
I’m really happy with how this jacket turned out. It’s the first time making something with princess seams, which was actually fine to fit. I also find working with wool very satisfying. This is a wool blend twill suiting which has a good mix of drape and body, which really suits the design of this pattern.
Sometimes when you make separates you can end up with items that don’t go with anything, but this will go with quite a few things. I think even in the Spring, it could be worn as an outer jacket during that transition in seasons.